The plastic of clothing and the construction of visual communication and interaction: a semiotic examination of the eighteenth- century French dress
Jardim, Marilia (2021) The plastic of clothing and the construction of visual communication and interaction: a semiotic examination of the eighteenth- century French dress. Semiotica, 2021 (242). pp. 17-37. ISSN 1613-3692
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The article presents an account of the visual relations created by gar- ments through their plastic formants, examining the role played by form, material, and composition in creating body hierarchies that produce prescribed behaviors between different subjects. The work dissects the concept of thematic role from Greimasian theory, investigating the manners in which an eighteenth-century wedding dress presents the chaining of programs governing materials, garments, and the body in the production of narrative interactions between subjects. The work utilizes a combination of Greimas’ method with the Visual Semiotics continued by Floch and Oliveira, as well as Hammad’s Semiotics of Space which permit the exam of optical relations created in the body through its clothing – relations that can be read as manifesting values that are both historically and socially determined, or in the act of apprehension of an object. The eighteenth century provides a type of “original” case, whose results are pertinent to a broader study of the relations between body and dress: the work concludes with the un- derstanding that Fashion changes through the transit of values and roles invested in the body and dress – a set of changes closely linked to the construction of social roles.
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